Monday, March 29, 2010
I went for a run this afternoon and in a few areas there were people having last min barbeques so they could eat their last bread products and not get their houses dirty. I headed over for the seder after sunset. It was a nice group, their neighbors, Miri, Yitzi, Itay and Gabby, (a girl from my program) joined us and it was Zahavah’s brother, son and 3 kids, one is married, and one of Zahavah’s daughters, Shlomit, who is a flight attendant who lives in America.
At the same time the seder was very different from what I am used to it was also very similar. A lot of tunes in general were different. When they read the story of the Jews leaving Egypt the men basically chanted it but they all know what they are saying so its not that big of a deal. During the reading many people were just in their own worlds talking to each other or what not, similarly to what many of you may be familiar with. They asked me to read some of the Hebrew so I thought they were going to go around the table but it either did not make it past me or I was the only one they were going to ask to read. It was a lot of pressure having a dozen Israelis listen to you read but I did pretty well and I think they were all shocked. It was funny, amusing, flattering and embarrassing all at the same time. For the 10 plagues they do something very different. Zahavah and Miriam brough a big bowl to the table and for each plague one dumped a bit of wine and the other dumped some water into the bowl. After wards they left the apartment building and dumped it on the grass and walked away backwards from it. Maybe one day ill ask what it was all about but I really have no idea as of now. At one point in the seder they took this plate of matzoh and they sing a song and go around the room holding the plate over different peoples heads, I also have no idea what it was about.
In regards to the food there were many differences. The charoset had this jam like texture and I think it was made mostly with dates, I ate it and did not even realize until the end of the seder when I asked why there was no charost that that’s what it was. They did not really have eggs like we do in the states and besides a small piece of matzoh they did not really eat much with the meal. They make these bread rolls that were eaten. When we started the meal we each got an entire fish on our plate, holy shit it was big and filled with bones, it was pretty good. There was no gefilte fish, matzoh ball soup or kugles but there was rice, we ate slowly and enjoyed each others company for hours at table. When I would stand up to try and clear something they would say no do not rush the meal and you are our guest please do not clean up. People were really interesting to hear what I was doing in Israel and like many other Israelis that I have met they were upset to hear that I came here and had to basically support myself. They think its crazy we would come here to help and not get more compensation. “Kol Hakavod” they all say. I headed home after midnight, what an eventful evening. Over all it was a very fun experience and I am looking forward to the rest of the holiday in Israel and with my host family.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
I slept in the next morning and went back to Zahavah’s for a big traditional lunch. I got there after 1 and we all started watching the video of their granddaughters wedding from January. Its amazing how they celebrate here, like everything else its very casual but the music, decorations and food seem over the top. Tons of energy, excitement and dancing.
The traditional meal passover meal is a barbeque so you eat a lot of the usual salads they eat for Shabbat and such and then they just continually were grilling, hot dogs, chicken, sausages, beef parts (many of which I was not familiar with and tried to avoid). It was a very relaxed afternoon. Considering how many people were in the apartment there was no arguing, tension or disagreements. No offense to my family but I do know if we could survive for such a long meal in such close quarters. Everyone is relaxed and helping when they need but there is no rush to move on to the next course or anything. Its simply about enjoy the time and food together. It seems like they really can separate their normal lives and stresses to just enjoy the idea of these holidays and family time. Some of the men started talking to me about Obama and the issues he is having with Israel which actually made me pretty uncomfortable for the first time since I have been here. I understand where these people are coming from but its very hard to explain myself to them when we are coming from such different perspectives. They hate him. No questions asked. They showed me Obama’s plan for the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and yes I disagree with many of the points but I don’t think its so black and white and I honestly do not think Obama will ever be able to pass through some of his ideas.
People slowly went to the couches and bedrooms to take a nap and suddenly the apartment was so quiet. I spend the rest of the afternoon talking with Zahavah and Miriam about the differences between Passover in Israel and in the States. I told them about all of the differences with the food, a lot of it is because of the Ashkenazi food that I am used to and a lot is just how people celebrate in Israel verses outside of Israel. I told them about kugels and they said they wanted to try what we cook so I am going to make them a noodle kugel (yes, Matt, your recipe) after the holiday. Miri said if she likes it she will make it herself, so it better turn out good, she’s hard to impress, they are both good cooks.
I got home and went with Molly and Chaya to watch the sunset over the water. It was a beautiful end to a delightful and relaxing day.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
This morning Molly, Sarah and I went for a day trip adventure to the Negev (desert) with and Israeli friend. The drive to Sde Boker (the Kibbutz where Ben Gurion is buried) took us about 2 and a half hours. Its really incredible how quickly the landscape changes and how small the country actually is. As much as I have traveled this country I am still constantly surprised. We drove south past Ashkelon which is literally a few miles south of us and then we drive past an area called Sderot. It is a community that has been constantly hit by rockets during the fighting with Hamas in Gaza.
In the area we also pass a place called Netzarim. In 2005 when Israel pulled out of the Gush Katif settlements in Gaza all of the Jews were replaced to this community called Netzarim. This was a very emotional experience for there people, many of them being Orthodox Zoinists practically being forced from their homes. My friend Philip was in the army at the time and was one of the soldiers who was a part of this operation. He said it was a very emotional and difficult experience. Its really amazing how close Gaza and all of these communities are.
We went on a hike near Sde Boker that I had done before but it was a beautiful day to be outside enjoying the weather and company of many other Israelis who are out enjoying the outdoors. Afterwards we went to ancient ruins from the 2nd century called Shivta. It was literally in the middle of no where and you could see nothing in any directions. Its amazing how these civilizations functioned in the desert without all of the technology and comforts we have today.
We went to the shuk for some of the usuals. I stopped by a makolet (bodga) tonight and it was the first time I had tried to go shopping since Passover started. Its really amazing how they prepare for Passover, there is paper or plastic blocking off entire shelves but its also surprising how many of the day to day foods are kosher for Passover that you cannot really find in America. Since I have been here I notice the seal on so many common items and now I realize that it just makes sense to make things kosher for Passover all year if they are not bread products (candies and stuff) because then you don’t have to clean your factory or change much for Passover.
Thursday, March 1, 2010
This morning I relaxed on our roof with Sarah and Molly. Most of our roommates have left to travel over the holiday and its so nice being in a quiet house. We decided to go to Tel Aviv to have dinner with 2 Israeli friends of Sarah’s. They took us to a restaurant that was not kosher for Passover but served Matzoh. They were not keeping Passover and many people in Israel especially Tel Aviv, do not keep it either. I was pretty surprised. I said to them, we would do anything to celebrate Passover each year in Israel and he said, we would do anything to spend it in America, its funny how things work, you always want what you cannot have.
Friday, March 2, 2010
I made plans to cook with Zahavah today so I could see how she makes her traditional Moroccan fish and take some of her recipes. I showed up and the fish was frozen and her brother, Uri, and his son, Shlomi, where there for Shabbat from Tsfat so I went on errands with them in the city. Before we left she gave me some snack to try. It was basically a potato pancake but instead of potatoes it was matzoh, (Crushed matzoh, onion, egg, salt, pepper), she then fried them up in oil and you could add salt or sugar to your taste. I have to admit they were pretty good. After the snack we were on our way to run errands. Errands with Israelis I have learned are much different than errands with Americans. They are possibly looking for a few things but if the store is closed or they cannot find what they want they just kind of meander around. No rushing, no worries. I do not know about you but I do know the last time I went shopping with out a mission. After wards we headed to the kishatot, an area on the beach where you can go for food or a coffee, and we hung out for a while. We talked a lot about the differences between Israeli and American culture, especially the lifestyle difference and the lack of pressure they exists here.
We headed home and I helped Zahavah cook a lot of the food for tonight’s Shabbat dinner. I am not sure if its this crazy every week but she had a few hours before Shabbat but had tons of cooking. I made Passover rolls for her with the help of her brother translating the recipe, I helped her make this eggplant spread we have every week, very glad to watch her so I can try it at home. Finally we got to the fish, this time she used whole pieces which was a bit intimidating but it was fun. Her daughter says she always tries to copy the recipe but the spices and vegetables just are not the same in the states. We will see what happens when I get home. Zahavah knew that I liked matzoh balls so she decided to make a few for us at the last minute as well. Its amazing how much prepping goes into Shabbat every week. I was talking to Miri and she told me that every little salads they eat they make each week, I have been wondering if at least some of store bought but that is not the case.
A group of people were at the beach so I went there quickly to enjoy the sunset before dinner. It is so nice to be able to live on the water and have such wonderful weather.
It was nice to go back and have Shabbat dinner after spending the day cooking with them. I think Zahavah really appreciated the help. She used to not let me even help clear the table but now she lets me help her which makes me feel really comfortable there, I am not just a guest anymore.
Saturday, April 3, 2010
This morning Molly, Sarah and I left for a hike in the Negev. One of the boys we met in Tel Aviv for dinner the other night invited us to go camping with his friends. He picked us up and we all met in Be’er Sheva, the biggest city on the way to the desert to get groceries for the next 2 days. Then we headed down for a hike near Mitzpe Ramon. It was a hike in an old river bed. There was sand on the bottom of the mini canyon the whole hike. It was like nothing I had ever seen before. We stopped for lunch in the middle of the hike, surprisingly I was one of the few people keeping Passover but deli on matzoh is pretty good.
The sun was setting as we finished the hike and headed to set up camp. They found this campground on the side of a mountain over looking Machtesh Ramon, the Ramon crator. It was absolutely beautiful. They were in no rush to eat so we just set up our tents and hung around two of the guys played music. For dinner we cooked an Israeli stew which they do when they hike. They use a pokepot which looks exactly like a witches cauldron. Basically they put anything and everything in it, vegetables, rice, spices, sometimes meats and just let it slow cook over the fire. It was pretty good. One of the family camped next to use gave us their extras and all of the Israelis said the family’s was much better, it tasted just like Zahavah’s chullent if you ask me. We hung around the campfire all night, singing and enjoying the outdoors. It was one of the most relaxing and enjoyable nights yet in Israel.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
We woke up and made homemade shakshukah for breakfast. I am glad I got to watch them cook it, now I think I can go home and do it myself. It seems pretty easy. This morning we did a much more serious hike up Mount Ardon. We climbed up the side of a mountain and had an amazing view of the crater. In the very traditional Israeli way we found some shade and made hot coffee as we enjoyed the view and a nice breeze. The hike down was not such a piece of cake, it was a long, narrow, jagged trail down. When we got to the bottom the texture of the terrain totally changed. You really felt like you were walking along the bottom of an ocean just without the water, there was sand and little plants everywhere. We walked for a while until we hit another mini mountain and climbed that as well. It was one of the best hikes I had ever done. Towards the end we stopped and enjoyed lunch in the shade. We had all carried parts of the meal in our bags and it was amazing what a feast was created, deli, pita, matzoh, corn, pickles, coleslaw, hummus. Israelis sure know how to picnic.
After the hike we headed home because starting at sunset was the last night of Passover where it is traditional to have a family dinner again. I went over and celebrated with my host family. Their daughter, Shlomit, was back again from the states, she worked a flight to Israel and was able to stay for a night until she worked another flight home. Its nice having a family to come back to spend the holidays with and eat real home cooked food.
Monday, April 5, 2010
Today was the last day of Passover. It is traditional for families all over to barbeque. According to Jewish law the first and last day of Passover (like many other holidays) are celebrated with the rules of Shabbat more or less. But one thing you are allowed to do is “transfer fire,” you cannot create it but you can transfer it fro m an already lit source so it has become tradition to barbeque. I went over to eat with Zahavah and her daughter who flew back for a day. This time we went next door and had lunch with Miri, Itsy, Itay and one of his friends. There were barbequed hot dogs, chicken wings, steaks, French fries, the usual salads. What a feast.
This afternoon Anna and I went for a walk. The weather is really starting to heat up and its nice to life near the beach so there is always a breeze.
This evening I celebrated a holiday that I never knew existed, called Mimoona. It is a Moroccan holiday that celebrates the end of Passover. People cover their tables with unbelievable amounts of cookies and treats and invite all of their friends over. People jump from house to house and share in the festivities together. There is also Moroccan dancing, which we watched a bit of on TV. The highlight of the night are these treats call mufletas. They are crêpe like pancakes that they cook up and eat with honey, butter and jam inside. I invited Anna to come with me, we went to my host families and saw Zahavah make the crêpes. They flatten out little balls of dough and cover them in oil. You put one down on a pan and cook it most of the way through, after you flip it you put another one on top and keep flipping the pile and adding to it. Because of the oil it doesn’t stick and it works out perfectly. I hate so many sweets tonight, I think I am done with deserts for a while. I got to meet some more of Zahavah and Amram’s family, visitors were constantly stopping by. I think there is a rule that you do not stay at one persons house for more than 30 minutes or something. I guess people are getting upset because like many other holidays its becoming very political, the politicians love to come out and make a scene. Nonetheless, it was an enjoyable experience.
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Today we had Ulpan all morning to make up for some lessons that had been cancelled in the past. It was nice to spend a large chuck of the day reviewing and learning. Over break there would be large chucks of time where I spoke no Hebrew because I was only with people from my program.
In the afternoon Anna, Ariela and I rode our bikes to a big concert that was happening in Ashdod in honor of Mimoona. There was a big park with a stage set up, and just like the rest of the holiday everyone barbeques. People are not joking around here. They literally pack up chairs, tables, grills, table clothes, food for an army (I even saw a baby crib) and hang out cooking and eating with their family. There were secular Jews and religious alike. One thing that I found particularly funny was at the beginning of the concert they asked the parents to keep track of their children so they did not have to make announcements throughout the event. Only in Israel would that not be obvious. It was a beautiful day and a pleasure to spend outside relaxing with friends.
For enrichment we began talking about the Holocaust and its relation to Israel because of our upcoming trip to Yad Vashem, Israel’s Holocaust Memorial and the Memorial holidays in the next week or so. We had a survivor, Mike Schwartz, come to talk to us about his experience. He grew up in Poland and was sent to work camps with his father. He became part of this group of young boys that were transported all over Europe for different jobs.
At the end of the war the whole group of young boys were brought to Palestine on the Joshua Wedgewood ship to get schooling and make lives for themselves, I am sure almost all of them were orphans. He was hurt while working and needed to be sent to America for eye surgery. He was asked if he had any family in the states and he remembered is father telling him years ago to always remember they had family in Paterson, NJ (where my family happened to be from as well). So he was sent to the states to live with his uncle he had never met and to get his eye fixed. He started his life there, got married and had children. Years later her returned to Israel, he knew that he always wanted to die and be buried here. He told us about the group of boys that he lived through the Holocaust with, they are not friends, they are family, the only family they ever had. They all had consecutive numbers tattooed on their arms from the Holocaust so when they were drafted for the army they chose to all stand next to each other to once again have consecutive numbers. They still all keep in contact with each other and many talk on a day to day basis. He could rattle off the address of them whether they lived in the states or Israel.
After enrichment I went over to Zahavah and Amram’s to load my pictures from last nights festivities on to her computer. When I walked in she was making a whole other batch of mufeltas to share with her co-workers and students tomorrow. Of course she made me and Miri eat more with her. Delicious and fresh. I am starting to notice a large theme of all of the amazing food I have eaten here.
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Today our whole program from Ashdod went to Jerusalem for a day trip. Our first stop was Har Hertzl, Israel’s military cemetery. I was really looking forward to this visit with our group, we have gotten a lot closer lately and I thought it would be nice to experience it with friends. (I had visited with my leadership seminar but it was not such an inspiring, emotional trip). The first section we went to was where soldiers were buried who passed away during the first Lebanon War in the early 1980’s. Our guide told us personal stories of some of the soldiers. Yair, our guide, told us the story of 2 Americans who had made aliyah and whose lives were taken in the war. Very quickly this tour became personal. Two participants in our program are both planning on making aliyah and serving in the army. My thoughts immediately went to them and I became overwhelmed with emotions. Why do people want to serve? What is worth giving their lives for? How do Israelis perceive Americans joining the army? How do their families feel? It is a really big decision to make. I have talked to the boys about their plans but it really hit me there. I wondered if they had been to the cemetery since they began thinking about their service.
One of the names we came across happened to be someone who was from the moshav (village) where our city coordinator, Kineret, is from. She said she hears this name every year at their Memorial Day ceremony but she had never seen his grave. Its incredible how everyone really does know people buried there. It is not like Arlington where one can feel very disconnected, when you walk the rows of fallen soldiers, everyone knows someone.
We walked by Hannah Senesh’s grave, along with the other paratroopers who perished with her in World War II. I have read her diary and she is a role model to me and many others who know her story. If you do not I suggest reading her story, its incredible.
We headed towards the newest section where soldiers are buried from the Second Lebanon War in 2006. The rules have changed and now families are able to personalize the graves. In the first section no matter your position in the army you had the same bed-like grave, now families can choose to personalize them and you see this a lot more in the newest graves.
(setting up for the ceremonies)
Our guide told us many more stories about friends of his and people whom he fought with. There was no sugar coating; he was really able to evoke emotions in all of us. It especially hit home with many people how young these soldiers were. Some of the youngest people on our program are older than many who have fought and died. It really shows how you must live every day to the fullest and respect and honor those who are not able to live as long of lives as we hope to. We walked by Herzl’s grave which had a lot going on around it because they were preparing the area for the big ceremony that will take place there for Yom Ha’Zikaron and Yom Ha’Atzmaut (Remembrance Day and Independence Day) which take place one after another in about a week. The country has specifically places these 2 days next to each other, the saddest and happiest day that the country has. There are ceremonies all over the country for Remembrance Day and at sunset that evening there is a huge ceremony on Har Herzl ending that sad day and beginning Independence Day. People think it is very special how the dichotomy of these 2 days work together and how people go from sad to happy in just 60 seconds. I
am very excited to be able to spend these holidays here in Israel.
We stopped and talked about the cemetery as a whole and the relations between Israel and America. Yair explained that in many ways Israel needs the help and support of the Jews around the world, especially in America. Without them Israel would be much more alone in the struggles they face. On the other hand, America and the rest of the Jews in exile really depend on the existence of Israel as a place that will always be our home. He described it as an insurance policy for everyone, no matter how you look at the situation. Israel must always be one step ahead of the game. The neighbors of Israel can mess up and do have options if they lose but there is no second chances for Israel, they have no choice but to be one step ahead of the game. Yair also talked about the “crazy” kids that exist in the school systems here, they for sure know how to think outside the box and this proves to be helpful later on in their lives. These students may end up being very important soldiers just a year or 2 down the road. You should never give up on anyone. In certain ways the balagan (craziness) of the society works for them here in many ways.
(view of Jerusalem from Yad Vashem)
Lastly we talked about the layout of the area. Just down below on the Hill that is Har Hertzl is Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial and Museum. A more appropriate way to tour the area is by starting at the bottom of the hill touring the museum and walking up the side to the top of the mountain where Herzel is buried. He represents the dream of Israel and the Jewish people, the idea of a homeland. As one walks up they must pass through the graves of all of those who have passed to be able to make real this homeland. It is impossible to forget the sacrifices that many have made to make Hertzl’s dream a reality.
After we walked down the side of the hill to tour Yad Vashem together. I had been before but there is always something new to get out of the experience. It was surely an emotionally exhausting day. Anna, Allison and I decided to stay in Jerusalem the night so we would be there for our conference the next day. It was Allison’s birthday so we went out to a nice relaxing dinner and had some delicious frozen yogurt afterwards. For those of you who remember Wixon’s we found this place that does something similar. You can pick whatever frozen fruit, candies, cookies that you want and they will grind it into the yogurt, it was amazing. You could really taste the hallavah which was very unique. Afterwards we found a little bar that had life music and we enjoyed water and nana (mint leaves) before going to bed.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
This morning we woke up and had time to explore Jerusalem. We walked around Ben Yehudah Street and we went to the shuk. Afterwards we met up with Jordan for lunch. We had an interesting conversation about the effects and reasons that he wants to join the army. It is really unbelievable how many things one has to question when making such a decision.
Today began the second weekend of a leadership seminar in Jerusalem.
Friday, April 9 - Saturday, April 10, 2010
Friday morning we learned about an organization run completely by volunteers called “Shecen Tov,” Good Neighbors. People go to the shuk in Jerusalem every Friday and ask the vendors and shoppers to donate food to people who do not have enough food for Shabbat this week. After we learned about the group we went to the shuk and helped out. It is crazy there on Friday’s because everyone is there shopping but that’s what makes it fun. We ran from stall to stall trying to get a few fruits and vegetables from everyone. By the end we collected a large amount of food. We were all pleasantly surprised how generous people were. I asked a man selling greens to donate and he just gave me a bag and told me to fill it with whatever I wanted. Its nice how open and willing people are to help and share with each other. In the afternoon we had a few lectures and then time to get ready for Shabbat. One of the participants in our group led an intimate conservative service which was nice and then we had dinner and another lecture afterwards.
Saturday we had a lecture where we learned about public speaking and after we had a workshop where people got to practice pitching their ideas for support or funding. It was amazing to see the transformations the lecturer was able to create with people and their ideas.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Today was my first day back at school since a week before Passover. Not to my surprise did I show up and could not find my teacher or the class. So I went home until my next class. It was nice to be back in the swing of things and I remember more of my students’ names than I thought I would after such a long break. I helped out with the 10th grade boys who had a test. Since we are obviously not taught English the correct way it was not so easy to help them. I know how we speak correctly but I do not always have the slightest clue why. The teacher asked me to sit with one of the students who walked in late and help him, even write the questions from the board for him and I am not sure why because I know he is one of the smartest in the class. Sometimes I really do not understand their logic. I spent my lunch going over the whole test with another student, also unclear why he needed one on one help, but it was nice to work with him.
After school we had Ulpan and then this evening our group attended a ceremony for Yom HaShoah, Holocaust Memorial Day that began tonight. Surprisingly a lot of the stores and malls closed early for the day. We went to a big auditorium by city hall where all different youth groups were invited to attend. There was a really nice stage set up and many different speakers, including the Ashdod mayor and a Rabbi and a group that sang a few Israeli songs. Six students escorted six survivors up the stage to light candles in honor of the six million who perished. It was amazing to see how many young people showed up for the ceremony. The room was packed and we were sitting on the floor in the aisles. At the end we all sang Ha’tikvah, the Israeli national anthem. It was beautiful and it felt good to be a part of the greater community.
Monday, April 12, 2010
Today is Yom HaShoah, known in Israel as Yom HaZikaron laShoah ve-laGvura. Holocaust Heroism and Remembrance Day. My school had a ceremony in the center of the campus. A small group of students went to tour the concentration camps in Poland over Passover so they led the ceremony, each reading different passages pertaining to their trip and the Holocaust. It was pretty difficult to understand anything. There was also a girls group who sang a few songs. For the most part everyone showed up in white t-shirts as well. It was really nice to see how they commemorate and remember the Holocaust in Israel. People in America definitely recognize it but it would not be difficult to go through the holiday and not even know it happened outside of Israel while here that would be nearly impossible.
The ceremony ended just before 10 and the students were definitely not on their best behavior, but at 10 o’clock there is a nationwide siren that blows and everyone stops what they are doing to commemorate and honor those of the Holocaust. As soon as it aired the student body became completely silent. There was a drastic change in the mood. Everyone stood there, heads to the ground, motionless. I had chills covering my body. It was an unbelievable experience to be honoring those whose lives were taken, those who gave and risked their lives to help others, in silence amongst so many other Jews.
As rough as the students and Israelis in general can be, there is a reason for this. The country is young and was founded on the idea of survival and that can be seen in every aspect of the society. When push comes to shove everything works out here and the students ultimately know what is important and when. Its amazing to see and I do notice it quite often.
Tonight I went to the Ashdod Women’s Basketball game. They made it to the finals and they happen to be against Ramat Ha’Sharon which is a team that a friend of a friend from the states plays on. It’s a very small world. I went with a few friends of mine pretty early to make sure we get seats. Its amazing how many people show up for these games, all decked out in their yellow Ashdod Maccabi clothing. In the finals it was 2-1 Ramat Ha’Sharon, it was a close game the entire time and in the last few seconds Ashdod lost on a lousy play. It was exciting to be there and see my friend Lindsay win but it would have been crazy to see the excitement if Ashdod won.
(if you made it this far...pardon my typos)
